Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Kawarthas Highland Park Dec 16-17 2006


- Weather anyone would expect from a mid-December paddle!

After a wonderful canoe trip in Killarney in mid-November, I was eager to push the limit a little further. By now, most lakes would normally be frozen over, but the continuing warm weather trend had me hopeful. Call it global warming or the Chinook, either way, the weather was unseasonably warm and the possibility for a paddle was good.

I had four days off and had originally intentioned to trip for 3 days. However, an unexpected situation needed my presence on the third of the four days, therefore either I had to cancel altogether or just go for 2 days (don't like 2 day trips - too much work for just a short paddle). I also had to attend to our property up north and close it down for the season, so in any case, I was going up north. So do I take advantage of it, or just call it a season? The paddle and canoe was calling, so two days it was - up in the Kawarthas Highland Park.

I packed the car with gear and canoe the Friday eveing after work, so I was off first thing next morning. By 10:00 I was at the property closing it up. I finished by 11:30 and I was off again to the put-in. I reached the access point to Catchacoma Narrows at around 13:15. Once unloaded, I pushed off shore and started the trip.

Up until this point, I had wondered about the lakes freezing over. I purposely chose an area closer south, and on top of that, I figured while I drove to our property, if all the lakes were frozen I would just high-tail it home. Of course, most were ice free. Only the really small lakes or ponds were frozen. Therefore I felt confident about continuing on. My trip was basically paddling up Catchacoma lake, continuing along Bottle creek to Bottle lake and then finally to Sucker Lake. Then of course the reverse the next day.

Paddling up Catchacoma Narrows was surreal. Here I was paddling in mid-December on a calm lake, ice and snow free. It was sunny and warm enough that was I paddling in a long sleeve T-shirt! I really felt fortunate and lucky to be experiencing all this.

- Paddling north on Catchacoma lake on a beautiful day

Midway up Catchacoma lake, I turned west towards Bottle Dam. It was a quick 60m portage on the left to the start of Bottle creek. Bottle creek water levels were high as it was pouring out the dam. Another reassuring sign that despite the narrow creek, the moving water should keep it from freezing.

200 meters up the creek, there were signs of some ice along the shoreline. The creek was swollen and fairly wide so even the little ice wasn't a problem,....yet. At about a kilometer in, the creek widened considerably and all I could see was ICE! Oh shit!!! Now I had a situation! First I decided to see if I could "paddle" through the ice if it was thin enough. As I drove the bow up and onto the ice, the weight of the canoe and the 2 barrels upfront broke the outer thinner ice, but as I continued, the bow ended up resting on top of the ice! The ice at this point was over an inch thick! Plan B: I stood up in the canoe to survey the scenery ahead. I could see open water way ahead to the left. I checked along the left shoreline and saw a thin trail of open water. I figured I could follow the left shoreline to the open water and then continue on. For the first time in my life, I would now be using the canoe as an icebreaker! (Thanks James! - My brother unwittingly offered his Royalex canoe for my trip, since the Red Helmet was at my girlfriend's home! Oops!)

- Yikes! Ice covering Bottle creek!

The paddle/poling/breaking ice slog was painful. It was exhausting work and I was sweating. I finally got to the point where the open patch of water was 20 feet infront of me. Although I had to angle 45 degrees from shore to get to it. I knew this was not thin ice, but once I got to the open water, I hoped it would get better. The next 10 minutes consisted of driving the bow up on the ice, bringing myself to the center of the canoe, breaking the ice and continuing on. Good thing I brought a spare aluminum paddle! I didn't feel as bad using it to break ice!

- Angling away from shore to reach open water (looking back)

As I felt a sense of freedom reaching water, I prayed that the madness (or my madness!) would end. Of course, coming around the bend, my heart, head, and spirit sunk. Ice as far as I could see! Not wanting to give up, and at the same time laughing at the situation, I decided to forge ahead. Why not! Unique experience, not my canoe being scrapped up, and at the same time,
once I stopped and breathed, the scenery was actually very beautiful. It was silent; no sound of water. Just me and and a frozen creek. Here's another one to go with the saying - "Up shit's creek!"

The decision to move on was one, my stubborness, second, my stubborness, and third it was getting late in the day and I had to get to a campsite. The closest one was on Bottle lake near the mouth of the creek. So I continued on pushing, breaking, poling/paddling. Some areas around shoreline was better than others. Such as rivulets running into the creek, or overhanging
branches that seemed to keep the area under it ice free - to steep rock faces where the ice welded itself right to the rock.

By now, it was 16:30, the sun had dropped below the trees and the ice just stretched on. I decided to get out, bushwhack along the shore and see what the situation was around the next bend. I left the canoe exactly where it was - in the water alongside the ice. (Now when can you say you've left a canoe in the water untied, not pulled up and expect to find it exactly in the same place you left it!)

The reconaissance was disheartening. All I could see was solid ice with no open water. However, while bushwhacking, I did find an old fire ring and some slightly flat ground for a tent. The shoreline was sloped so finding this was a welcoming surprise as I now had less then half an hour to get set up before dark. I quickly got back to the canoe, continued on crashing through ice and got close enough to lug my barrels up to the "site".

- Ice, ice, and more ice. No end in sight!

Camp was quickly set up, some firewood gathered and I got cooking supper just as the light was disappearing. Despite the ice and the failed attempt to get to the lake, I was now totally relaxed and enjoying the moment. Here I was, hot chocolate in one hand, a pot of Thai Ginger noodles in the other, a fire infront of me and the beauiful frozen scenery displayed below me. It was just serene.

The warm temperatures continued through to sundown as the evening was not cold at all. Even without the fire I would have been fine. I sat out for a couple of hours reading before finally turning in around 19:30. Once tucked deep in my down bag, I continued reading, but the relaxed state and the exhertion from all the ice-breaking soon had me nodding and then to a early sleep. Besides, I needed all the rest I could get since when I had gone down in the evening to get water, all the ice I had worked so hard to break, seamlessly froze back together as if I had never passed that way!

Through the night, I woke up several times. Once, while it rained, and the other times by a nighttime visitor. Something small (mouse or squirrel) starting digging right by the tent at my head. As it dug, I could hear the dirt sprinkle on the tent wall. As I shifted in my bag, it stopped, then resumed after some time. This played out on and off again with less and less time between me shifting and it waiting, until finally it got fed up with me and just continued unabated. At that point, I should have just stuck my head out and introduced myself.

I finally arose around 07:00 and took a peek outside. It was unseasonably warm as there was a fine mist coming down. The rain during the night had put a thin layer of water on top of the ice. The forecast today was supposed to be rain so I proceeded to get packed and have breakfast before it got worse. After breakfast, the mist stopped and a nice warm breeze picked up and
funneled its way down the valley. Great, now I not only had the ice to deal with, but a headwind. At least it was warm.

Due to the early departure and short distance to the car, I decided to extend the day by paddling across to Beaver Lake, down to Gold Lake, back across to Mississagua Lake and then back up the Catchacoma Narrows to where my car was located. As much as I was enjoying my severely shorten trip, I felt I needed a little more before ending the trip altogether.

Before leaving "camp", I took the liberty to remove garbage from the site since I was so close to the take-out. When I got there yesterday afternoon, I was furious to find cans and beer bottles in the fire pit. I pulled out 2 cans, and 4-5 beer bottles (2 which were broken)! I initially didn't know what to do with them but stack then in a pile outside the firepit, but when I walked further back, I found a cooler bag and 2 more beer bottles strewn about. I then made the decision to put all the thrash in the cooler bag and pack it out. It is not often you find a container to carry thrash out (especially broken glass), so I took advantage of it. Of course, it filled quickly as I found other things to put in it - beer caps, plastic bread tabs, plastic water bottle, plastic wrapping, etc, etc. I know Nancy is organizing the clean-up in the spring and she is heading out with Kevin Callan to the Kawarthas, so lets just say I'm getting a head start for the Kawartha's group!

- Ridiculous!!! Just senseless!

The paddle back to Catchacoma lake wasn't as bad. I was taking my time down the creek as the warmer weather seemed to be slowly melting the ice and made the ordeal a little easier. The next problem wasn't ice but the wind. By the time I reached the portage, the winds had strengthen to a point where the waves were now pushing back the water spewing forth from the dam. I knew it was going to be challenging, but all I had to do was get around the far left bend at which point the wind would then help push me along down the lake.

Yes, the paddle was excruciating! At times it seemed as if the canoe stood still. With a partner, I wouldn't even had a second thought, but going solo into a headwind/waves is a total different beast. I commited so I just beared down and pushed forward. I couldn't even stop and rest as the shoreline was littered with big rocks and the waves were slamming into them. It helped that I trimmed the canoe bow heavy, but my arms still burned like hell! All sweaty and hot, I certainly could have used a quick dip!

- The morning of the second day. A trip I will never forget!

I finally rounded the bend and then it was smooth sailing from there. Due to the wind, I then decided not to chance fate and continued on to the take-out. Coming down the Narrows, the sun broke from the clouds and warmed me inside and out. Paddling the last few strokes to the take-out, I felt a deep thanks and reverence to Mother Nature for providing yet another lasting
experience and memories to cherish and share. Cheers!

David

3 comments:

Unknown said...

Dave even though you are a sick freak I still admire your grit and determination. I thought I was crazy paddling the lake at Kell's cottage in early spring. Im glad you didn't fall in. Trust me when I say this, "I WILL NOT TRY TO ONE UP YOU ON THIS ONE".

Timothy Steele said...

I read with interest your comments on your trip up Bottle Creek. As you may or may not know we have a cottage very near the entrance to Bottle. You are welcome to use it as a starting point if you happen tom try this trip again.

Tim Steele, Senior

Nancy said...

Thanks for your mention of Kevin Callan's and my clean-up event, The Great North American Wilderness Clean-up.

It is those like you who make an extra effort while on your own trips that will one day make the wilderness garbage problem, well, not a problem - hopefully.

Thank you!

Nancy